Constuction And Modelling Garment
Dr. Gordana Colovic
Constuction and Modelling Women's Shirts
Basic dimension :
Bust girth = 88 cm
Waist girth = 72 cm
Hips girth = 97 cm
Help size :
Armhole depth = 1/10 Bust girth + 11.3 = 20.1 cm
Centre back = Armhole depth + 21.5 cm = 41.6 cm
Waist to hip =
Length of the pattern = Centre back + (20 to22) cm – 1.4 cm (for correction) =
Neck depth = 1/6 Bust girth – 0.6 cm = 6.7 cm
Across back = 1/4 Bust girth – 5.5 cm = 16.5 cm
Armhole Width = 1/8 Bust girth – (1.5 to 2) cm = 9.3 cm
Across front = 1/4 Bust girth – (3.5 to 4) cm = 18.2 cm
Centre front = Centre back +1/2 Bust girth – (1.5 to 2) cm = 44.3 cm
Description of work :
Point 1 to Point 2 = Armhole depth = 20.1 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Centre back = 41.6 cm
Point 1 to Point 4 = Waist to hip = 62.2 cm
Point 5 to Point 6 = Across back = 16.5 cm
Point 6 to Point 7 = 2/3 Armhole Width = 6.2 cm
Point 1 to Point 8 = Neck depth = 6.7 cm
Point 7 to Point 9 = 6 cm (between)
Point 9 to Point 10 = 1/3 Armhole Width = 3.1cm
Point 10 to Point 11 = Across front = 18.2 cm
Point 10 to Point A = 1/4 Armhole depth = 5 cm
Point 12 to Point 13 = Centre front = 44.3 cm
The sleeve construction is based on additional measures :
Armhole = 40.5 cm
Sleeve crown height = 1/3 Armhole = 13.5 cm
Overarm = 59.9 cm
On the main vertical line is measured :
Point 1 to Point 2 = Sleeve crown height = 13.5 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = Overarm = 59.9 cm
Point 2 to Point 4 = Bicep measure front = 18.6cm
Point 4 to Point 5 = Bicep measure back = 21.9 cm
Point 2 to Point 6 = 1/2 (Point 2 to Point 3) – 1cm (for elbow line)
Modelling model 1 : Women's sleeveless shirt made of cotton knits. The front part of the bust line, the hole is cut in the form of tears. Sleeve, neckline and opening at the chest are welt with the cotton belt width of 1.5 cm. From neckline welt strip extending the length of 30 cm. Straps are tied into a bow. The tunnel width of 3cm was made on the full circumference of the shirts 10 cm below the belt. Through him, pulled a cord that is linked on the left side. The length of the model is 75 cm. Hem is 3cm.
Modelling model 2 : Women's T-shirt made from cotton with elastane knitted fabric. The front of the shirt is cut below the chest. The upper front part was made in the folding width of 16 cm left and right T-shirt. The formation lap gets a deep "V" neckline.
Shoulder width is 8 cm. The bottom of the shirt follows the body line. The beck parts are of no cut. The sleeves are narrow. The length of the model is 6 cm below the waist.
Modelling model 3 : Women's shirt made from cotton with elastane knitted fabric. The shoulders are free. Shirt follows the line of the body and crosses the line belt 8 cm. On the front of the shirt is a deeper cut. Raglan sleeve is and ¾ overall length.
Elastane fibers are synthetic fibers made up of linear macromolecules of high molecular weight.
The first process for the industrial-scale production of elastane fibers by dry spinning was developed in 1962 by J.C. Shevers and colleagues in the Pioneering Research Division of E.I. Du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc. (U.S.A.). This multifilament has since been on the market under the name "Lycra". The outstanding property of elastanes is their very good stretch elasticity that can be as high as 500%, while the elastic recovery reaches 95%. The wear comfort of underwear, outer clothing, leisurewear and sportswear is generally ensured by the use of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibers. Today, more and more articles including elastane yarn are available in the circular knit fabric collections and also in woven fabrics. These articles are characterized by excellent wear comfort and fit.